Kagoshima 鹿児島
- amandagoss
- Jul 26, 2016
- 5 min read
Kagoshima (鹿児島) city lies in the shadow of the highly active Sakurajima (桜島) volcano, so it was only appropriate that the first stop in this town was the Sengan-en gardens (仙巌園) to view the volcano. In July, 2015 Sengan-en and Shoko Shuseikan were recognized as World Cultural Heritage Sites related to Japan’s Meiji Industrial Revolution (UNESCO). Shoko Shuseikan is the museum next to the garden. Our tour guide took us around the garden and told us about the importance to the area. The main reason Sengan-en is so important is because it was the first place in Japan to modernize. The garden and villa were created by the Shimazu lords, who were the rulers of this region. A main feature of the garden is a gas lamp, which is in the shape of a stone lantern, this was the very first gas lantern in Japan.
One lord, Shimazu Nariakira (1809-1858), in particular brought western ideas into Japan. During his reign he set up Shuseikan, which was an industrial area on the outskirts of Kagoshima City. He was also credited with building the first steamboat in Japan the Unko-Maru.
So why did Japan need to modernize and why was Kagoshima one of the first places in Japan to embrace a western influence? Well according to our tour guide, Japan first started to modernize due to the need to improve the defences of the nation and particularly its sea-going defences in response to foreign threats. Because Kagoshima is located on the bay, it was a prime location for foreign forces to invade.
Now while Japan had begun to industrialize and modernize by the 1860's our tour guide stated that when foreign countries had started to infiltrate Japan, the defences of Japan were not as sophisticated as those from the western countries. And on the 13th August, 1863 Britain bombarded Kagoshima, in retaliation to a samurai assault a year earlier on British nationals that were based in Japan. Fortunately, there was minimal loss of life as all the villagers had been evacuated. Although the city had been completely demolished in the conflict, the western show of force had been deeply humiliating. Many realized that until Japan caught up with the technology from the west, the unequal treaties and their own perceived inferior status would remain intact. This gave way to the Meiji Restoration 1867-1868, which marked the end of samurai rule in Japan and saw Japan rapidly westernize and industrialize.
The second day was a free day, which I spent on the optional steam train tour. I decided to go on the train because again our free day seemed to be plagued by torrential rain! I was hoping that by traveling on the train, I would be able to travel far enough that the rain would stop and the sun would shine. So we went to the train station to catch the train. We were also joined on the day by one of Leigh's past exchange students Kazu. On the way up the mountain I learnt a lot about the school system in Japan from Kazu. He said that in Japan it is almost unheard of for people to not go directly into university upon graduating high-school. He was surprised that in Australia it is very common for students to take a gap year before recommencing study. Once we got to our destination Hitoyoshi (人吉市) in the prefecture of Kumamoto (熊本), we were greeted by smiling and waving locals. We were informed on the train that it was polite to wave and smile back to everyone. The town was eerily quiet and being a Sunday most shops were shut. We did however find a small Miso production factory. Although no one was there, we were able to freely wander about and learn how miso is actually made. Japan is a country built on honesty and you could see this clearly in this town. Many shops were unmanned but there were opportunities to buy things everywhere, you just had to leave the correct money for the item you were taking. It reminded me of a country stall in Australia where you leave money and take the fresh fruits or vegetables. But it is definitely not something you would see in a town shop. On our way back we got caught in what the worker on the steam train described as "heavy rain". So the train was stopped, halfway down the mountain. It did lead to a vibrant conversation with the worker about Pokemon, as we discussed the differences in the English and Japanese names, while we waited to find out what was happening. Eventually we all got onto a bus to return to the hotel. However the diversion added an extra two hours onto the trip. And as I was starting to get sick, I decided against going out for dinner and went straight to bed.
The next day for me was a nightmare. I was extremely sick and the weather was still rainy. However wanting to make the most of the trip I decided to join the group for the day's planned activities. Ohh how I would regret that choice! Due to the rain, the trains were still closed so we had to catch a bus to our next destination. I usually don't get travel sickness on land but the bus ride sure didn't help me feel any better. The first stop was the Chiran Peace Museum for Kamikaze Pilots (知覧特攻平和会館). Not somewhere I was particularly interested in. Not to mention majority of the exhibits were in Japanese only, and at this stage my limited knowledge of kanji meant I was unable to read most of the information. So I left fairly quickly and went for a walk to the nearby garden. Next I was disappointed that we would no longer be visiting the Chiran Samurai District. Something I had really been looking forward to.
So it was back on a bus to head to Ibusuki (指宿). The main reason to visit Ibusuki is to experience the therapeutic sand baths. However as I was ill with a fever, the last thing I wanted was to be buried in hot sand. So I opted out and with a few others was let loose in the hotel that provided the sand baths. All I can say is the hotel was creepy, it had some shops and an arcade downstairs, with a cafe and reception upstairs. Beth described it best saying "I think this what it would be like after an apocalypse". The arcade was so run down, and only one shop was open. I had at least hoped I would be able to get a drink at the cafe but that too was closed. The creepiest part of all though was that it here appeared to be no guests there! And next to no staff! Thankfully I wasn't the only one who didn't do the sand baths as that is one place I would not like to be alone in. Finally the others came out from having their sand baths and we were able to leave. I was just hoping that with a good night's rest and some medication I would be feeling better, so I could enjoy the rest of the trip.
1. http://www.senganen.jp/en/top/
2.http://www.japansmeijiindustrialrevolution.com/en/site/kagoshima/component01.html
3.http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1484
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